An island born of a volcano that hasn't finished its work: the Fournaise erupts almost every year, and the lava flows cut the southern road. Inland, three collapsed cirques, Salazie, Cilaos, Mafate, and the last is reached only on foot. And you climb the Piton des Neiges, three thousand metres, for sunrise. Cari, rougail, brèdes, achards. Maloya was long sung in secret.
