The true cinnamon tree grows only here, and cinnamon comes from its bark, not from the cassia sold everywhere else. The island is small and crossed slowly: the train from Kandy to Ella takes the whole day, so much the better. Sigiriya raises its rock above the plain, Polonnaruwa lines up its buddhas, Galle keeps its Dutch ramparts. Hoppers, kottu, sambol, dhal. Two monsoons, never on the same side.
