Six thousand islands, two hundred inhabited, and the essential may well happen on the mainland. Meteora sets its monasteries on fingers of sandstone, Delphi keeps its navel of the world, Epirus hides its stone bridges in the Zagori. Then the meltemi rises over the Cyclades and everyone heads back to the sea. Horta, feta, ouzo, tsipouro, dinner at ten. August is not recommended.
